As well as being closely related to the season’s menswear offer, this Undercover womenswear collection was also presented in the showroom: Jun Takahashi is on a show sabbatical while he plots other productions. The clothes were highly quotidian and came spiced by a contrasting seasoning of tweeness and toughness.
Wavily seamed cashmere ‘suiting’ in black featured brass chain details and back-to-front button closures on the jacket. A pair of jeans worn under a marled oat-toned cashmere coat was embellished on one leg with a Cindy Sherman portrait that was further emphasized with beads. Other jeans were patched ’90s style with silk flower prints. More flowers garlanded the black background of a silk zip-up coat and matching snuggly scarf: as you snuggled into it visually you spotted jarring details in the print, including a Bambi-like foal’s face with redacted eyes.
A bomber in floral topstitching was overlaid with sequins to deepen the bouquet’s texture. The same fabric was used to fashion a mumsy tote with the Undercover mantra Chaos/Balance debossed into its nylon webbing handle. There was a great shinily-surfaced black goat leather dock jacket with furry collar details, strapped pointy pumps with polka dot linings, a cashmere hoodie with a ragged double faced seam from armpit to kangaroo pocket, and a raw silk pressed army surplus style parka.
Again Takahashi presented plenty of grafted outerwear. Examples included a brown chore jacket with a white chore jacket apparently layered beneath it, a black peak lapel overcoat with a black judo-style robe similarly arranged, and an MA-1 shearling mash-up. There were some cool wide-legged jeans with satin black ruffles peeking from the pockets. This collection finely reflected the complexity of the everyday.
