We don’t recommend those more hybrid pans because, after testing the thermal conductivity of several copper cookware lines, we found that a majority of these copper/stainless-steel pans do not perform any better than their stainless-steel counterparts, which cost quite a bit less. This is because the stainless steel cladding diminishes the copper’s responsiveness. They may heat up a bit faster, but they won’t do so evenly, leaving you with greater temperature variation on the surface of the pan (not ideal).
In terms of thermal conductivity, tin lined copper is the undeniable winner. These pans heat up and cool down fast, yet the temperature across their cooking surface remains remarkably even. This is that reputation for precise control in action. We’d recommend the Historia line from Ruffoni for tin-lined copper pans. Not only are they beautiful, they exhibited quantitatively superior performance in how they responded to changes in heat.
Cooking with tin is not as scary as it sounds, but if you don’t want to play that game, Mauviel’s M’150 line is the next best thing. Consisting of 90% copper and only 10% stainless steel, these pans heat faster and more evenly than stainless-steel cookware (just not as well as a tin lined pan.) Copper cookware enthusiasts will tell you that the more copper the better with a pan, and put a lot emphasis on the thickness of a pan. The thing is, copper is also quite heavy, and maneuverability is just as important a factor in a pan as how well it heats. That’s why we prefer Mauviel’s 1.5 mm thick pans opposed to their heavier stock. We’d say you should only consider the thicker 2.0 or 2.5mm cookware if you plan on having the pan over heat for a really long time—like if you’re making stock on the regular.
How we picked the best cookware sets
We had a big conversation on staff about what the most necessary components of a cookware set are. There were a lot of opinions and hot takes, many of which resulted in fantasy cookware sets that aren’t actually available anywhere (much to a couple of enthusiastic staff members’ chagrin, there are no stainless-steel cookware sets that feature rondeaus or Dutch ovens). We analyzed the available assortment of cookware sets online, taking note of the most common assemblages, and tried to identify redundant or unnecessary pieces. We came to the conclusion that it would be best to start with the fundamental pieces of cookware you’d most likely use, and encourage expanding a collection based on your needs on a piece-by-piece basis.
For selecting specific lines of cookware, we used our testing data for previous product tests to inform our recommendation choices, as well as the industry expertise of the professionals in our Test Kitchen. For the tests and the methodologies we used to select our winners, check out our tests for the best stainless-steel skillets, saucepans, and stockpots.
FAQs
Why are stainless-steel cookware sets the best?
Stainless steel is the standard material of choice for professional kitchens due to its versatility, longevity, and durability. You’ll also find more types of cookware fabricated in stainless-steel than you would in any other type of material other than nonstick (but we’ll get to why we don’t recommend that in a bit). We still appreciate cast-iron skillets, enameled cast-iron Dutch ovens, carbon-steel frying pans, and woks, but they seldom feature in preassembled cookware sets, and so we consider them to be add-ons.
Stainless steel has low thermal conductivity, meaning it holds on to heat rather than letting it escape, leading to great heat retention while cooking. Stainless-steel pans with aluminum cores, which all our top picks have, are more responsive to changes in heat as you cook. Most stainless-steel collections are induction compatible (all our recommended sets are), and they can withstand a high range of temperatures, making them suitable for stovetop and oven-cooking. While many cookware lines purport to be dishwasher-safe, we generally suggest hand-washing all stainless-steel cookware, as dishwashing detergent can be quite corrosive.
Why shouldn’t I buy a nonstick cookware set?
We are not big advocates of nonstick cookware in general, and thus we do not think there is a “best nonstick cookware set.” When we say nonstick cookware set, we mean all types of nonstick cookware, including the self-purported, nontoxic, PFAS, PFOA and PTFE ceramic-coated cookware sets that are available these days. We know many people love their nonstick frying pans and nonstick skillets, but there are a few reasons why a full pan set with nonstick coatings is not the best idea.
First and foremost, nonstick coatings—regardless of how tough and oven-safe some hard anodized lines claim to be—have serious longevity problems. Ceramic nonstick coatings are the worst by this measure, as they scratch easily and their nonstick properties gradually degrade over time. However, Teflon-based pans won’t fare much better, as scratches are pretty much inevitable even with proper care. Pans with nonstick coatings also generally can’t handle high heat or metal utensils and are seldom oven-safe. There are more brands that claim to be, but we are ever skeptical of these claims. As for nonstick pots, they’re a bad idea all the way around. You will often need to subject your pots to extended time on heat when making a stock (bad for nonstick coatings) and you may want to scrape up fond (also bad for nonstick coatings if done with enough vigor).
Ultimately, we think it’s worth recommending cookware that will last you a lifetime—or at least longer than a single presidential administration. Nonstick cookware sets will hold you over for a couple of years, but eventually you will have to chuck them in the landfill and replace them. That’s why we think that if you are into the idea of nonstick, you should keep it to a single skillet.
What’s the problem with larger cookware sets?
Listen, we wont stop you from buying a 10-piece cookware set, a 14-piece set or even a 20-piece set if your heart is truly set on a particular collection. The reason we don’t go out of our way to recommend them is that a lot of times they include superfluous, underutilized pieces. They typically consist of different size variations of a single pan type—two saucepans, frying pans, or sauté pans, for example. If you’re already familiar with the range of cookware you want, and you know you’re going to utilize these things, then we encourage you to go for it. But if you’re really just looking for a core collection of cookware to build upon, we say start with the basics and add from there.
Round out your cookware arsenal with some of our other favorite pots and pans:
- Dependable, reliable, and virtually indestructible, these are the best cast-iron skillets for a lifetime of cooking.
- Carbon steel is tough and durable, compatible with induction cooktops, and can withstand high heat. (They’re all over professional kitchens for a reason.) These carbon steel pans are our favorites.
- Nonstick pans are an indispensable cooking tool for making omelets, browning salmon skin, and reheating leftovers.
