To usher in the earliest days of spring, dig into a dish of this zippy mac and cheese spin-off. Leeks are sturdy enough to survive winter frosts, sprouting with a gradation of green colors and a mellow flavor all their own. Here, they’re slant-sliced into planks and baked with oversized noodles, all draped in a sharp cheddar sauce with a mustardy kick. Conchiglioni, a larger shell pasta, manages to nail the best of both texture worlds, staying tender when submerged and catching color and crispiness at the surface. Often stuffed with meat or cheese, they can hold plenty of sauce and even a hefty leek. Make sure to separate any stuck-together noodles before baking—they love to snuggle like nesting dolls.
Test Kitchen Tip: Look for leeks about 1½” in diameter, as opposed to thicker stalks. Leeks grow in sandy soil and can be challenging to clean, especially when large. Remove the loose outer layers, then rinse well. Trim off roots and deep green tops and place in a bowl of cold water. Let soak, encouraging sand and soil to sink, before removing.
